Tudor has a knack for participating in the spotlight at Baselworld. Over the last few years, the story cycle seems to always began with Tudor — perhaps through a “leaked” teaser or a pre-Basel defendant on the eve of the picture — and then it comes back to Tudor when blogs, such as yours truly, publish wrap-ups, round-ups and best-ofs for the episode. 2018 was no different — in fact, it may have been Tudor’s strongest time yet.
The first billow of report to hit was that Tudor had propelled a GMT Black Bay( read our review now ). It was a logical next gradation for the symbol and the Black Bay line. And then came the second largest gesticulate. The rumors reverberated incorrect at first — almost like they were too good to be true. Could Tudor genuinely have released a 39 -millimeter Black Bay with a bezel? Sure, they had already done smaller , non-bezel mixtures, but to make a smaller, bezeled Black Bay appears unlikely. I want, at that point wouldn’t it be nearly at antique Submariner proportions? And if they did make it, then what push would they use? Surely not an in-house campaign, I made. After all, the original Black Bay and Pelagos actually got a touch thicker when they concluded that button from ETA to in-house, suggesting that Tudor’s progress are fairly sizable. I concluded that the rumors were wrong.
And then, much to my pleasant surprise, I was the bad one. The brand-new watch, dubbed the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, was very much real, and it was really exactly 39 millimeters in diameter with a new, smaller, in-house caliber. It also came with a more consumer-friendly price tag, costing about $100 less than its older, large siblings.
While the diameter merely decreased 2 millimeters, the rest of the characterizing magnitudes came down proportionally as well. The lugs became from 22 to 20 millimeters, and the the lug-to-lug ran from 50 to 47.75 millimeters, and, perhaps most importantly, the thickness threw from 14.8 to 11.9 millimeters. The discontinue reaction is a watch that wears entirely differently and appears more like its vintage forefathers, thus opening the Black Bay line up to an even broader group of supporters and customers. Of route, you’re predict this in 2019, and this is all age-old news already.
Today, somewhat under a year since it was unveiled, but only a few months after it firstly thumped shelves, we’re uttering the watch a proper evaluation. Is this the Black Bay of our daydreams? Is it the everyman’s and woman’s Submariner? A Sub for a new age and a new generation? Can this help us get over our collective regret at having not bought a yield Tudor Sub back when they were more reasonably priced? Let’s find out.
Review: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
39 x 47.75 mm
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight( I’ll call it the BB58 going forward for brevity’s purpose) precisely searches right on and off the wrist. It’s smaller, but it’s not small-time, and it retains all of the stylish, stylish allure that Black Bays( and Submariners for that matter) are known for having. Appraising 39 x 47.75 x 11.9 millimeters, the subject stumbles a sweetened blot for a compact sport/ dive watch. We’ve been receiving more and more 39 -millimeter watches, and it’s a sizing that seems to work well for watches with and without bezels. That’s even more true-blue when there is a larger alternative for those of us who wish a beefier watch with more spirit, as is the case here.
As I wrote above, it’s less the diameter that are important here, and it’s more about the overall proportions of the watch. It’s not as long lug-to-lug, so the subject cores better on a smaller wrist. The diameter here is “ve brought”, but the dial-to-bezel amounts have been tweaked( as far as I can tell) by increasing the related immensity of the dial opening. This allows the watch to get smaller without gazing much smaller.
But the real narration now, and it’s what builds the most difficult gap, is the thickness. Coming in at a “hairs-breadth” under 12 millimeters, the example thickness is ideology for a diver. It’s not going to prevail any awards for being the thinnest dive watch, but it’s not trying to. It’s still a tool watch with a rocky attractivenes, but it’s no longer clunky. Likewise, it gapes thin because the mid-case here is not a stymie of improved steel. The overall thickness is broken up more evenly amongst the case-back, mid-case, bezel, and crystal.
Seek at those shiny bevels
Big, but not too-big, crown
The colored tube is lead
This fetches me to an important place: it’s not that the original Black Bay( BB41 from here on out) is too big; 41 millimeters across is well within modern anticipations. Nor is the issue that it is too tall; there are a lot of other watches pushing 15 millimeters in thickness. The trouble is the fact that it wears towering. Other watches, includes the BB58, cleverly obscure their height through motif, and therefore read smaller on the wrist( this is something we are talking here about a lot on W& W ). The BB41 doesn’t do this, and as a result, it looks like a shiny castle on the wrist. From above, the size is gorgeous, rugged, and reads well on both large and small wrists. From the side, nonetheless, it gazes unrefined.
Tudor attempted to address this with the BB41 GMT by contributing a brand-new bevel along the bottom of such cases, which helped a little bit. But the real fix to this problem is a thinner lawsuit, and the BB58 does it right.
A more overlooked, but still significant, change to the BB58 is that the lug are now 20 millimeters down from 22. This makes a huge overall inconsistency in gape and feel of the watch. 22 -millimeter leashes are wide-cut, and 22 -millimeter lugs are vast. They added to the overall strong, domineering vicinity that the BB41 has on the wrist. With 20 -millimeter lugs, the BB58 has a lighter presence all over the wrist. This doesn’t equate to a less masculine watch, knowledge you, but one that is certainly more subdued. For my wrist, it’s much opted as I literally find it more comfy. I’ll get to the bracelet in detail afterwards, but I’ll observe now that it lessens from 20 millimeters down to 16, which frisks a big role in the BB58 wearing as well as it does.
As for the design, if you’ve visualized a Black Bay before, then you shouldn’t have any surprises. It retains the same curves, determine, finishing, etc. The brushing on the highest level of the lugs is still exceptional, as is the sharp-witted bevel that cuts at the edges of the case. The line-ups are still smoothed, which is in keeping with the Sub-design language. However, given the amount of irregularity the Black Bay has from yield frameworks, I’d love to see a brushed version at some point.
The bezel still looks very nice, but it’s still a bit slippery since there is no overhang like on the Pelagos. That said, the 60 -click mechanism feels spot-on when turning, and it still has that cool little fastening proces at 0/60 where it takes a bit more effort to turn at that spot.
The crown is still “big” relative to the case, but it doesn’t feel as overdone. It’s signed with a large Tudor Rose logo, same as on the BB41, and it is a visually requesting gesture to vintage Tudor. One thing it’s wanting, however, is the colored crown tube. This was sort of a signature of the Black Bay, but one that was always met with a tepid response. It didn’t ruin anything, but it didn’t really add anything to the watch either. I never hated it, but I also don’t miss it on the BB58.
Even more than the action, the dial of the BB58 is unadulterated Black Bay. Tudor has a formula, and they don’t stray from it here. In detail, it’s basically a somewhat scaled down form of the Black Bay Black dial I recollected a couple of years ago( predict that review here ). The dial face is matte pitch-black and gapes a style faded to my eyes. Tudor says the dial is domed, so I presuppose it’s domed, but the effects is very subtle. Perhaps there is a handle of curvature to be seen at the edge of the dial and I’m exactly missing it.
On the surface, you have the telltale Submariner-style hour markers composed of lume-filled, rose gold appliques. The lume is too that same warm custard color that is just far enough off-white to not look too brand-new, but without looks a lot like faux-patina. Around the edge of the dial is a closed index of hash mark for the hours/ seconds rendered in a faux-rose gold periodical. In the center, you have the logo under 12 and the extent rating plus chronometer verse above 6. The paws are the staple “snowflake” set finished in polished rose amber. Frankly, the only change I can see here from the BB41 is that the dial printing might get a touch closer to the edge, as indicated by the more obscured “Swiss Made” text under 6.
The cordiality from the gold is impressing
The classic, fearless markers are always easy to read
Though I formerly took publication with the snowflake hour hand being mixed with round markers, after a few years of looking Black Bays around, I just don’t care anymore. I still envision the handset glances better with square markers( a la the Pelagos ), but I’ve come been applied to it as is. It’s not actually offensive and, having regard to the success of the line, it’s growing its own thing. You prevail, Tudor. On the BB58, the mitts look great and do their job of helping you tell the time quickly.
While the dial remains approximately the same, the bezel has a insignificant cosmetic change that becomes this first copy of the BB58 unique in the collection. The insert is pitch-black, anodized aluminum and peculiarity a scarlet triangle at 0/60 with a lume bone, just like it does on the BB41 Black. But instead of fresh aluminum for the numerals and brands, Tudor proceeded with rose golden to match the phone places. The upshot is a decent sum more golden being added to the picture, but not too much. It mostly precipitates somewhere in between the Black Bay Black and Tudor’s two-tone simulations. Think of this one as two-tone light.
While I’ve considered some quarrel about this move, and even in the W& W office not everyone is on the same page, but I think it’s immense. I’ve come to really like gold/ gilt accents on boast watches. I’m not about to go full gold any time soon, but I do enjoy a handle of that warm tone coming off a watch. It makes a watch feel little starkly modern while not specific going for a vintage quirk. On the BB58, it obligates the gold accents of the dial jump out a bit more, and the overall packet more style than boast focused. As the inaugural BB58, this also draws it feel more special.
The 79090 and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight
The story of the BB58 doesn’t stop with the smallest case, which is really a gateway to something more significant. The BB58 is powered by a whole new caliber, the MT5402. Boasting the same technical specs as its bigger, older brother( the MT5602 featured in the BB41s ), the MT5402 is a COSC-certified chronometer with a 70 -hour power reserve, silicon hairspring, free-sprung equilibrium, 27 ornaments, a frequency of 28,800 bph, and a bidirectional wrap rotor. The inconsistency is simply the size.
But this isn’t the incidents of time a smaller basi plate; it’s truly a whole new action , now weighing 26 x 4.99 millimeters against the 31.8 x 6.5 millimeters of the older caliber. That’s a huge difference and it’s what allows Tudor to get away with the smallest, thinner action. For reference, the ETA 2824 -2 is 25. 6 x 4.6 millimeters, so the brand-new gesture is still much in line with that industry staple.
In my hour with the BB58, it was extremely accurate and established no influence reservation publishes. In fact, I was delighted to find it was better ticking and right on time after a got a couple of periods of not wearing it. On a timegrapher, the research results were miraculous. Given that my habit of that implement is amateur at best, I won’t publish the research results, but let’s just say they were well within spec.
I think you can’t really diminish what a big move the BB58 is for Tudor. It’s not just a great watch that fills a penetrating yearn for a more vintage-feeling, Submariner-inspired watch by the house with actual claims to the call( Hans Wildorf Group ), it’s a whole new pulpit for the firebrand. This isn’t going to be a one-and-done situation. Not merely did they invest in the tooling for all of such cases, dial, and bangle factors for the watch, but they did so for the free movement of persons as well. And the onetime doesn’t even compare to the significance of the latter. This campaign is likely to wipe out what’s continues to be of ETA from the firebrand, which is not merely acquires them independent from Swatch group, but now solidifies Tudor as the $3,000- $5,000 powerhouse they want to be. To rephrase Walter White, they are in the dominion business.
Bracelet and Wearability
The rivet bracelet that Tudor introduced to the Black Bay line in 2016 certainly ended the throwback image of the watch, so I was glad to see that they propelled the BB58 with a 20 -millimeter version. While the committee is leather and fiber options for the watch, the bangle is the right choice. As for the details, it’s exactly what you expect. The bangle is 20 millimeters at the lugs, and it lessens down in steps to 16 millimeters. Every tie-in facets rivet-plated areas, with the removable associates putting one stud for a screw-bar. It’s a smart detail because it both gazes good and allows for easy sizing at home. The clasp is a solid, well-finished, fold-over clasp with a secondary fastening that creates a Tudor Shield shape.
And now for the essential points — how it wears. Does the difference in size offset that big of a difference on the wrist? The answer is an shameless yes. The brand-new client makes a life of change. The BB58 is svelte and compact, but still toolish and masculine. Nothing of the ruggedness of the BB41 has been lost, and the yield charm has only been amplified. And the watch is time straight-up comfy. There’s no snagging on my sleeve , no fatigue by the end of the day , no clumsy pressing while sitting at my desk and typing. It’s accurately as I miss it to be.
Granted, I opt smaller, thinner watches in general. As my wrist teeters around 7 inches and isn’t expansive, I find shorter lug-to-lug portions and diameters from 36- 40 millimeters standard. That said, looking back at photographs of the BB41 on my wrist, I can’t say that that watch looked bad. Bigger, perhaps a touch bolder, but not oversized. The BB58 is more about its slight balances. It’s not propagandizing my restraints. It sits centre on my wrist, which allows for more of the bangle to be visible from above. Ultimately, it’s really precisely a matter of penchant, and Tudor currently has good options for different tastes.
Black Bay Fifty-Eight: 39.5 mm
Black Bay Black: 41 mm
And one more for good luck
Of course, the other cause is vintage-ness. The Black Bay is indicative of Tudors legacy strand so it’s meant to speak to yield Tudor Submariners, and Tudor has built its success largely off of the rising popularity of antique watches in general. The BB41 had the gazes, but not the scale of assessments. The BB58 examines and feels like a vintage Submariner. As antique tolls continue to go up, the BB58 caters a great alternative — and not only in terms of aesthetics. It’s arguably the smarter purchase given the modern build and specs.
It’s not often that a brand makes something great and reaches it even better, but that’s exactly what Tudor did with the BB58. The Black Bay format was once prove and wildly successful. While newer discrepancies of the BB41 debuted with perhaps less fanfare than early versions did( likely a clue of modest tirednes or too many options ), the Black Bay was nevertheless on track to become an iconic watch in its own right. With the BB58, Tudor declined the mic. They took all of the criticizable a number of aspects of the BB41, secured them, and contributed a whole new in-house caliber into the assortment. With both sizes being available( and technically there’s one large variant in the shape of the 43 -millimeter bronze case , not to mention the bezel-less patterns) they have everyone covered now.
And that implies everyone has to buy one! I’m kidding, of course, but Tudor is surely making it harder to repel, especially since Tudor also quitted the cost on the BB58 by $100 dollars( compared to the BB41) to $3,575. And that’s not even taking into consideration the expenditure for pre-owned prototypes, which will be even more tempting. Perhaps the rate inconsistency details for the cost of saved sword, but it’s more likely a strategic choice to be even more competitive. Tudor really is trying to own the $3,000- $5,000 space, and the fact that their most well known watch is closer to $3,000 than $5,000 while sporting an in-house caliber is very smart. We’ve already been service industries respond with the likes of Omega, IWC, Panerai, and Baume and Mercier offering in-house prototypes under $5,000.
What’s left to say? It’s clear Tudor did good with the BB58, and it’s likely they will expand seriously on the collecting. This wants more options, certainly, but perhaps too better pre-owned expenditures on this first edition, which is sort of a winning/ make if you have some fortitude. For my smacks, this framework, with its reserved use of golden, might ever be my favorite. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Likeness from this announce:
Read more: wornandwound.com